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@article{Al:2026:10.1016/j.apor.2026.105039,
author = {Al, Khalili U and Christou, M and Karmpadakis, I},
doi = {10.1016/j.apor.2026.105039},
journal = {Applied Ocean Research},
title = {Numerical prediction of wave particle velocities in the coastal zone},
url = {http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2026.105039},
volume = {170},
year = {2026}
}
TY - JOUR
AB - Modelling wave particle kinematics in coastal regions remains challenging due to the complex andhighly nonlinear physical processes involved. This study quantifies how sea-state steepness and bedslope affect phase-resolved horizontal velocities in coastal waters and evaluates the ability of existingkinematic theories to predict these velocities. Velocity profiles beneath extreme wave crests areobtained through extensive numerical simulations of long-crested irregular waves. The results revealthat steeper slopes accelerate shoaling, whereas milder slopes experience stronger breaking-inducedreductions. These lead to variations of up to 48% in shallow-water velocities across bathymetries. Theperformance of commonly used wave theories is assessed to provide practical modelling guidance.Regular wave theories (Stokes and Stream Function) yield accurate estimates in intermediate depthsbut fail in shallow water where nonlinear interactions dominate. In such cases, the implementationof irregular wave theories is found to be increasingly important. In particular, the methods of Molinand Donelan perform very well due to their ability to capture spectral superposition. In intermediatewater depths they produce an error of the order of 5%. However, underestimations of up to 40% areevident in shallower water. These findings highlight both the capabilities and the limitations of currentkinematic models and underscore the need for improved formulations under breaking conditions.
AU - Al,Khalili U
AU - Christou,M
AU - Karmpadakis,I
DO - 10.1016/j.apor.2026.105039
PY - 2026///
SN - 0141-1187
TI - Numerical prediction of wave particle velocities in the coastal zone
T2 - Applied Ocean Research
UR - http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2026.105039
VL - 170
ER -
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