Coastal Engineering

Module aims

  • Enable students to determine the nearshore characteristics of waves, currents, tides and storm surges.
  • Equip students with the techniques required to calculate the wave and current processes that occur in the coastal zone.
  • Provide students with an appreciation of how to protect natural or man-built coastal structures from the environmental forcing and physical processes that they experience.

Learning outcomes

On successfully completing this course unit, students will be able to:

  • Appreciate the multi-faceted nature of coastal problems and the techniques of coastal engineering analysis.
  • Calculate the transformations waves undergo as they propagate from deep to shallow waters.
  • Predict tidal variations and appreciate the impact of tides in the coastal environment.
  • Calculate the detailed wave field in the vicinity of typical coastal structures.
  • Determine wave run-up, long-shore and rip currents in the coastal zone.
  • Calculate sediment transport in the surf and swash zone as well as the evolution of the beach profile.
  • Appreciate the environmental impacts of coastal engineering works.

Module syllabus

  • Wave transformations (shoaling, refraction, reflection, diffraction and breaking).
  • Nonlinear waves (Stokes 5th, stream function and solitary waves).
  • Tides and storm surge (theory, observations, prediction and surges).
  • Surf-zone hydrodynamics (radiation stress, mass transport, mean water surface, run-up, long-shore currents, rip-currents and undertow).
  • Sediment transport and morphodynamics (surf zone, swash zone, beach profile evolution and plan forms).

No.

Topic

Staff

01

Linear Regular Waves

MC

02

Nonlinear Regular Waves

MC

03

Wave Shoaling and Refraction

MC

04

Wave Breaking

MC

05

Wave Reflection

MC

06

Wave Diffraction

MC

07

Tide Theory

MC

08

Tide Prediction

MC

09

Surf Zone

IK

10

Wave Breaking Dissipation

IK

11

Swash Zone and Wave Run-Up

IK

12

Mean Water Surface Elevation

IK

13

Longshore Currents and Return Flow

IK

14

Sediment Transport

IK

15

Coastal Evolution

IK

16

Coastal Protection

IK

Pre-requisites

CI1-120, CI1-140, CI2-240, CI2-214, CI3-340

Teaching methods

The module will be taught using a series of lectures, tutorials and laboratory demonstrations. There will be printed notes and example calculations during lectures. Tutorials involve helping students individually and occasionally working problems on the board.

Assessments

 Assessment information will be provided separately.

Module leaders

Professor Chris Swan