Expedition Report
The Rätikon mountain range, situated along the borders of Austria, Liechtenstein, and Switzerland, offer challenging, alpine style multipitch climbing, with world class routes. The climbs are famous for being exposed and isolated, with large run outs and long walk-ins. The objectives for the two climbers, were to complete as many multipitch climbs as possible, and develop foundation skills for more challenging endeavours in future through enhancing their experience of various climbing techniques. They also hoped to inspire future students and pass on the skills learnt to other members of the College climbing community.
The expedition took place in August so as to provide the best weather conditions, and initial climbs in the Rätikon included the Gruobenfieber and Miss Partnun, before they headed to the main climbing area of Grüscher Älpi. The two members had travelled by van from the UK, and intended to use their van to reach their climbing objectives in the area. . The two climbers decided instead to drive to Frankenjura, the world-famous sport climbing destination in the heart of Germany, which provided a huge forest full of massive rocks, and crucially, no steep mountains. The climbing in Frankenjura was the exact opposite of that in the Rätikon.
Raw power was the key ingredient, and the climbers found themselves hanging footless from 2-finger pockets and traversing massive roofs. They climbed every day during their stay, including in caves when it rained. The climbing was truly exceptional, with an outrageously large selection of routes of all types. The team gained valuable first-hand experience of hauling, and greatly improved their climbing technique and physical strength.
The rock in the Rätikon, and the type of movement required, was new to them and helped push their footwork and balance to the next level; the powerful routes in Frankenjura helped them improve their dynamism, coordination, and brute force.
