2019 Iceland Ski Mountaineering

The aim was to repeat as closely as possible a similar expedition to Vatnajökull in 1932 by six Cambridge undergraduates who completed the first double crossing of Europe’s largest icecap unassisted. Having reviewed the Cambridge students’ diary, “An Iceland Adventure”, their scientific publications, and photos from 1932, the team of 3, including 2 from Imperial, undertook their venture from mid-April to early May in 2019. They journeyed unguided and unsupported with the intention of discovering evidence from the earlier expedition and to conduct environmental surveys to highlight the changes happening in this area. A further objective was to be the first to conduct off-grid remote microbial DNA sequencing analysis of gathered samples to contribute to the understanding of local organisms in their natural environment.

The Vatnajökull Icecap forms an 8,000km² frozen plateau between Iceland’s two highest mountain ranges, and this rarely visited region in spring is prone to extremely high winds, heavy snowfall and rain. For their venture the team managed to pack and transport a compact lightweight DNA sequencing laboratory, which would be driven by solar energy. The trio were transported to the icecap, (800m), on a snow-cat, directed by the grandson of the guide used by the 1932 expedition. They progressed to Skalafellsjökull and by evening the rain had arrived even though they were now at a height of 1,200m. They moved to the final section of the crevasse field whilst in a complete white-out, and then onto poor terrain with constant changes from fresh snow to ice sheet. Their efforts caused foot blisters and bruises and route changes were required to avoid the worst of the weather. After 5 days skiing they reached the approach to Pobergsvatn and the northern edge of the glacier, at which point the sky cleared and the weather began to brighten. Using a crevasse free descent and a snow-bridge over a river between the icecap and rocky land, they had completed the south-north traverse of Vatnajökull.

The next day was devoted to exploration of the basecamp from 1932 and then the summit of the lava Dome 1, which revealed the cairn built by the Cambridge team and metal cans with relics including a handwritten note from the 1932 team. They ascended Svörtutirdar, as the 1932 group had done, and skied up many of the lava domes in the area. Having nearly setting fire to the tent, the group then skied to the Hveragil hot spring gorge, and despite the sulphur odour, samples were collected for DNA sequencing. The team conducted drone photography which provided the data to later 3D map Dome 1, the Hveragil gorge, the Thorbergsvatn glacial lake, and the lava domes underneath the Kverkfjöll mountain range. Before their return journey the group summitted the ‘needles’.

The remote DNA sequencing performed by the team has been published in the journal MDPI Genes. In addition, they also completed short psychology surveys each morning as part of studies conducted by several UK universities. The whole undertaking including the training, fundraising, promotion, logistics, and research, has challenged and developed the members, as well as providing an immensely rewarding experience.

In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Old Centralians' Trust.