The Cordillera Real Expedition of 1972 took place in the Bolivian Andes, following the success of a previous expedition to the Hindu Kush in 1970. After considering various South American ranges, the team chose Bolivia’s Cordillera Real for its high concentration of granite peaks, dramatic geography, and the prospect of new routes. Eight climbers formed the expedition.
The team established Base Camp at Cheracota (4700m), a well‑situated alpine cirque offering access to peaks including the Viluyos, Hankopiti group, Casiri Este, Ancohuma, Illampu, and Pico del Norte. Climbers operated in pairs, each undertaking multi‑day routes and communicating with coloured flares (green for safety, red for distress).
Early weather was favourable, allowing rapid progress. One team traversed the Viluyos peaks and climbed Hankopiti VII and IV via steep mixed routes, often finishing in hailstorms, and another team twice made the long walk to the Casiri Este region, completing ascents of Mesketanta, Monte Triangulo, and Casiri Este via difficult faces, exposed ridges, and icy bivouacs. A third pair summited Hankopiti I by its long South East ridge, with a fourth climbed Pico del Norte by a complex South East ridge, then inspected Illampu’s formidable east face.
A major tragedy occurred during the ascent of Illampu. After a successful climb, an accident on the summit ridge led to both climbers losing their lives. A strenuous multi‑day rescue attempt in severe weather took place. Despite the loss, the expedition achieved 21 ascents—some straightforward, many demanding—with difficult snow and ice conditions across the range.