Expedition Report
The overall aim of the expedition was to live for month, unsupported, on the ice and rock of the rarely explored territories of the Saint Elias Range in Alaska, more specifically, the Jeffries Glacier and the Fraser Glacier. The team consisted of four Imperial students none of whom had been to Alaska before. Other key objectives were to explore the rarely visited territories of the Wrangell-St Elias National Park and Preserve, to attain first ascents of previously unclimbed peaks using both ski mountaineering and alpine climbing techniques, to identify other potential objectives in the area for future expeditions, and to obtain relevant aerial photographic material both of the objectives and the glaciers.
The expedition took place over June and July, and during that time thirteen peaks were successfully ascended, eleven of which were previously unclimbed. New routes were established on some of the peaks that had previously been climbed via unclimbed lines that offered challenging technical climbing. In general the rock encountered was of a poor quality with some granite, but generally comprised of loose rock that was difficult to protect. Climbing routes were selected based on the quality of ice and snow on a particular line, whilst avoiding any long sections of rock (apart from ridges). The grade of climbing ranged from facile to difficile, with the majority of routes climbed being around assez-difficile. As well as using skis to travel over the glaciers, the group also used skis on some of their ascents and descents. Weather conditions, including whiteouts, resulted in some lost days.
The successful climbs comprised:
- Alopecia Peak (3105 meters) - First Ascent,
- Whale Peak (3262),
- Ocean Peak (3359) - First Ascent,
- Mount Short (3345) - First Ascent,
- Bald Top Peak (3123),
- Sam Peak (3074) - First Ascent,
- Boris Peak (3108) - First Ascent,
- Eleanor Peak (3087) - First Ascent,
- Cantaloupe Island Peak (3450) - First Ascent,
- Siris Peak (3681),
- Flying Peak (3444) - First Ascent,
- Mount Crystal (2930) - First Ascent,
- Forgotten Peak (3339) - First Ascent.
The venture served to improve the ski mountaineering and alpine experience of all members, and proved to be an opportunity to learn how to adapt to and survive the challenging conditions they encountered. Numerous potential peaks were identified for future expeditions and it is hoped that this and their experiences will inspire the wider mountaineering community to explore Alaska further.
In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Old Centralians' Trust, Gino Watkins Memorial Fund, Augustine Courtauld Trust, Mount Everest Foundation, British Mountaineering Council, The Alpine Club, Photonics Academy of Wales, Eagle Ski Club, and Andrew Croft Memorial Fund.