Adjunct to the Apolobamba report

Alain Mesili, a Bolivian mountain guide gives the Imperial College Apolobamba 1959 Expedition credit for five first ascents, listed below in bold.

Northern Apolobamba climbs - first ascents

  • Katantica III 5,610m/18,400 ft Karl Gross, Dieter Hain. May 1968
  • Katantica Oeste 5,630m/18,054 ft. British Expedition. West Face, 1992
  • Ascarani/ Azucarani 5,580m/18,307 ft. William Melbourne, Geoffrey Bratt, John Jenkinson,
    Arthur Smith, July 1959
  • Monte Alba 5,525m/ 18,122 ft. 1969
  • Nevado Palomani Grande 5,768m/18,924 ft. Ricardo Mamani, A. Esteban Eba, JC Martinez, 1932
  • Palomani Tranca 5,633m/18,480 ft. Italian Expedition, 1958
  • Nevado Bures 5,560m/18,037 ft. British Expedition, 1969
  • Nevado Chocñacota 5,800m/19,029 ft. Italian Expedition (CAI), 1958
  • Matchu Sutchi Coochi 5,680m/18,635 ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Nevado Sorel Oeste 5,640m/18,504 ft. Imperial College, 1959
  • Nevado Radio-Aficcion 5,580m/18,037 ft Spanish Expedition, 1969
  • Montserrat Norte 5,555m/18,045 ft - Spanish Expedition
  • Lloco Lloco 5,605m/18,532 ft. Karl Gross Dieter Hain, 1968
  • Cerro Apolo I 5,650m/18,532 ft. Spanish Expedition, 1968
  • Apolo II 5,630m/18,466 ft. British Expedition, 1992
  • Pico Presidente 5,700m/18,696 ft. Spanish Expedition, 1969
  • Pelechuco Huaracha 5,650m/ 18,537ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Chucuyo Grande 5,430m/ 17,815ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Chaupi Orko South 6044m/19,830 ft. Werner Karl, Hans Wimmer and Hans Richter, August 1957
  • Chaupi Orko North 6,000m/19,685 ft. Italian Expedition
  • Flor de Roca 5,808m/19,053 ft. Italian Expedition, 1958
  • Nevado Salluyo 5,808m/ 19,056 ft. Italian Expedition CAI, 1958
  • Hanaco 5,720m/ 18,761ft JDAV-Expedition, 1995

The same website also includes:


There are no maps on the Apolobamba in Bolivia. There is a sketch map, by W.H. Melbourne, 1959.
In 1957, the “Defense Mapping Agency” published the first aerial photography maps of the area. Unfortunately, the mountain names on the map were completely inaccurate. In August of that year, during their expedition, Wimmer Hans and Richer Hans used the I.G.M. map (58 pages) with a scale 1:250.000. The maps were so imprecise that they unwittingly climbed on the Peruvian side, instead of the Bolivian side as they had planned. When they finally identified Chaupi Orko (6,044 m/19,824 ft.), they made the first ascent.

W.H. Melbourne of the “Imperial College” drew the first geographical map of the northern part of the Apolobamba, covering the area from the Pelechuco valley to the Peruvian border.