Expedition Report

1959 Apolobamba Bolivia report [pdf]

In June 1959, six Imperial College students set out to explore and climb uncharted peaks in the Andes’ Nudo de Apolobamba on the Bolivia–Peru border. Previous German and Italian expeditions had visited parts of the region, but major ridges such as Matchu Suchi Coochi and Soral remained unclimbed and unmapped. The team aimed to produce accurate topographic and geological surveys and make first ascents.

After acclimatizing in La Paz the team traveled by truck across the altiplano past Lake Titicaca to the northern Apolobamba. They relied on triangulation points from a 1913 border survey and established supply dumps rather than fixed base camps. Geological work focused on the Cojata–Tambopata area, while mapping concentrated on Matchu Suchi Coochi and Soral.

The expedition achieved notable climbs, including the first ascent of Nevado Sorel Oeste (5,640 m). They also produced the first detailed sketch map of the region, correcting earlier errors that had caused confusion over peaks such as Chaupi Orco (6,044 m). Their work overcame limitations of previous aerial photographs and resulted in a reliable 1:250,000-scale map.

Beyond mountaineering, the team documented vivid scenes of La Paz and the altiplano, from bustling Aymara markets to traditional customs, while contending with the challenges of a dry, high-altitude environment. Despite logistical difficulties, the expedition fulfilled its objectives: climbing previously untrodden peaks, conducting geological and hydrographic surveys, and mapping northern Apolobamba with unprecedented accuracy. These achievements laid the foundation for future exploration and underscored the value of international collaboration.

In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Mount Everest Foundation.

Alain Mesili, a Bolivian mountain guide gives the Imperial College Apolobamba 1959 Expedition credit for five first ascents, listed below in bold:

  • Katantica III 5,610m/18,400 ft Karl Gross, Dieter Hain. May 1968
  • Katantica Oeste 5,630m/18,054 ft. British Expedition. West Face, 1992
  • Ascarani/ Azucarani 5,580m/18,307 ft. William Melbourne, Geoffrey Bratt, John Jenkinson,
    Arthur Smith, July 1959
  • Monte Alba 5,525m/ 18,122 ft. 1969
  • Nevado Palomani Grande 5,768m/18,924 ft. Ricardo Mamani, A. Esteban Eba, JC Martinez, 1932
  • Palomani Tranca 5,633m/18,480 ft. Italian Expedition, 1958
  • Nevado Bures 5,560m/18,037 ft. British Expedition, 1969
  • Nevado Chocñacota 5,800m/19,029 ft. Italian Expedition (CAI), 1958
  • Matchu Sutchi Coochi 5,680m/18,635 ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Nevado Sorel Oeste 5,640m/18,504 ft. Imperial College, 1959
  • Nevado Radio-Aficcion 5,580m/18,037 ft Spanish Expedition, 1969
  • Montserrat Norte 5,555m/18,045 ft - Spanish Expedition
  • Lloco Lloco 5,605m/18,532 ft. Karl Gross Dieter Hain, 1968
  • Cerro Apolo I 5,650m/18,532 ft. Spanish Expedition, 1968
  • Apolo II 5,630m/18,466 ft. British Expedition, 1992
  • Pico Presidente 5,700m/18,696 ft. Spanish Expedition, 1969
  • Pelechuco Huaracha 5,650m/ 18,537ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Chucuyo Grande 5,430m/ 17,815ft. Melbourne Expedition, 1959
  • Chaupi Orko South 6044m/19,830 ft. Werner Karl, Hans Wimmer and Hans Richter, August 1957
  • Chaupi Orko North 6,000m/19,685 ft. Italian Expedition
  • Flor de Roca 5,808m/19,053 ft. Italian Expedition, 1958
  • Nevado Salluyo 5,808m/ 19,056 ft. Italian Expedition CAI, 1958
  • Hanaco 5,720m/ 18,761ft JDAV-Expedition, 1995

There were no maps on the Apolobamba in Bolivia. In 1957, the “Defense Mapping Agency” published the first aerial photography maps of the area. Unfortunately, the mountain names on the map were completely inaccurate. In August of that year, during their expedition, Wimmer Hans and Richer Hans used the I.G.M. map (58 pages) with a scale 1:250.000. The maps were so imprecise that they unwittingly climbed on the Peruvian side, instead of the Bolivian side as they had planned. When they finally identified Chaupi Orko (6,044 m/19,824 ft.), they made the first ascent. W.H. Melbourne of Imperial drew the first geographical map of the northern part of the Apolobamba, covering the area from the Pelechuco valley to the Peruvian border.