Expedition Report
The 1984 Imperial College Ecuadorean Andes Expedition marked the first British attempt on El Altar, a remote and dramatic volcanic massif in Ecuador’s Cordillera Real. Once a 6,300m volcano, El Altar was shattered by a catastrophic eruption, leaving a horseshoe-shaped caldera with ten peaks exceeding 5,000m. The team, composed of Imperial College Mountaineering Club members, aimed to achieve first British ascents of major summits and explore unclimbed faces and ridges, including the formidable North Face of El Obispo and South Face of El Canonigo.
After logistical challenges in Colombia and Ecuador, the team established base camp near El Obispo at 4,000m, supported by mules for the 15km approach. Conditions were harsh: unstable volcanic rock, frequent avalanches, collapsing seracs, and unpredictable weather. Despite these obstacles, the expedition achieved notable successes: the first British ascent of El Obispo via the West Ridge and Italian Couloir, ascents of Monja Grande and Fraile Occidental, and climbs on Chimborazo (6,310m), Ecuador’s highest peak. A highlight was an ambitious attempt to launch a hang-glider from Chimborazo’s summit, thwarted by calm winds but yielding spectacular photographs.
Later, two members extended the expedition to Peru, reaching the summit area of Huascarán Sur (6,767m) after a grueling climb over steep serac ice and complex glaciers. Other objectives, including Antisana and Cotopaxi, were abandoned due to access restrictions and hazardous conditions. The expedition combined serious mountaineering with scientific and cultural engagement, assisting in a dramatic rescue of an injured climber on El Obispo and fostering ties with local communities and the British Embassy. Supported by the Imperial College Exploration Board and sponsors, the venture advanced British climbing in the Northern Andes and provided participants with invaluable experience in high-altitude exploration.
In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by Imperial College Union and the University of London Convocation Trust.