2011 Reru Valley, Himalayas

From 23 August to 26 September 2011, a seven-member Imperial College team undertook a mountaineering expedition to the Tetleh Valley, a remote branch of the Raru Valley in the Zanskar Range, Ladakh, India. Their objectives were to explore unclimbed peaks, establish new routes, and conduct alpine-style ascents in a rarely visited region.

After extensive travel—two flights, three days of off-road driving, and a two-day trek—the team established basecamp at 4,616 m. The valley offered exceptional climbing potential, with granite big walls and technical mixed terrain. Over three weeks, the team achieved seven new routes and four summits, including the highest peak in the valley, Lama Jimsa Kangri (6,276 m). This ascent involved steep snow and ice climbing up a couloir, culminating in a challenging cornice and exposed scrambling. Other notable climbs included Moel Kangri (5,930 m), an unnamed peak (~5,700 m), and technical rock routes on the basecamp big wall.

Conditions were demanding: altitude sickness affected several members early on, and the terrain required complex route-finding across scree, glaciers, and precipitous ridges. Despite these challenges, the expedition was highly successful, demonstrating strong teamwork and adaptability. The report highlights the valley’s untapped potential for elite climbers, with numerous technical objectives remaining, particularly on high-quality granite faces.

Environmental impact was minimized through strict adherence to Leave No Trace principles, including gas cooking, waste removal, and careful campsite management. The team expressed gratitude to supporting organizations and noted the importance of funding and logistical assistance in enabling exploratory mountaineering. The Raru Valley expedition stands out for its pioneering achievements in a remote Himalayan region, contributing new routes and valuable knowledge for future climbers.

In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Old Centralians' Trust, the Mount Everest Foundation, Welsh Sport Association and Mountain Council of Scotland.