Expedition Report
The object of the expedition was to cycle off road within the Khövsgöl Aimag province, the northernmost in Mongolia. The team aimed to cycle a route of 800km in 28 days, across plains and mountains within the province, regarded as one of the most beautiful and diverse areas of the country. The group also planned to hike up some of the mountains, but peaks could not be pre planned due to the lack of information about the area. As none of them had been to central Asia before, the team also looked forward to meeting the local people and experiencing their nomadic culture.
Mongolia is the world’s least densely populated country covering a vast area, which includes the Gobi Desert in the south and a huge steppe in the centre. Khövsgöl Aimag province is known for its national park and the fresh-water lake Khövsgöl Nuur. The whole province lies about 1,600m above sea level with mountains over 3,000m. There is only one asphalt road in the province, which stretches between Mörön and Hatgal, whilst all other links are dirt tracks of varying quality. The planned route included passes up to 2,800m high and vast swathes of flat plain grass land. The requirement therefore was for strong mountain bikes with off-road tyres. Although the summer climate in Khövsgöl Aimag is generally similar to the UK, the weather was subject to greater extremes, and was quickly changeable, with night-time temperatures dropping to freezing.
The landscape is mostly uninterrupted for tens of kilometres so allowing approaching bad weather to be seen and shelter to be arranged. The absence of light pollution and the elevated altitude provided breath-taking views of star constellations on cloudless nights. Mongolians are very hospitable and are known for welcoming strangers into their gers, (white round nomadic tents), and to offer food. They are also quite inquisitive towards foreign travellers and willing to help.
The expedition covered 37 days from mid-July to mid-August, and the route took the form of a figure of 8 starting in Mörön and heading to Hatgal, a small town which became base for three tours. The team initially arrived in Ulaanbaatar, the capital, during the Nadaam Festival, which meant all the shops, banks and the immigration office were shut, and would be for five days. Helpfully the hostel owner’s wife lent the group some Mongolian Tugrik until the banks opened and US Dollars could be exchanged. While waiting, the group explored impressive Ulaanbaatar with its high-rise modern glass structures amid the coloured roofs of traditional buildings, the many ongoing construction developments, its western style shopping malls, and the gigantic Chinggis Khan monument above the museum.
During the first days cycling to Hatgal, the temperature reached 30°C before it dropped to 11°C during a storm. In addition during a downhill part of the journey the trailer carrying food and provisions became detached from the cycle pulling it, and crashed at speed damaging the panniers, which required a quick repair. During the following days the group engaged in of off-road cycling towards the west of the clear blue tropical waters of the lakes, a popular tourist destination for Mongolians, with the aim of reaching Jigleg settlement, halfway along the western shore of the main lake.
The next day included an ascent to 1,920m at the top of the lake, whilst being plagued by swarms of horse flies on the slower stretches, before cycling through boggy ground to reach the town of Renchinlkhümbe. The group arrived at Tsagaannuur the following day after having taking a wrong turn for 15km, wading through a river crossing, and then negotiating the Darkhad Depression where the ground was full of animal holes. From Tsagaannuur it was 2 days before reaching Ulan Uul, with climbs up to 2,230m where snow which had settled the previous winter was encountered. In winter the regional temperature can drop to -40°C. The group finally reached Hatgal within the next two days via the Toom Bar settlement. Following this the team climbed some of the peaks in the area up to 2,800m, which provided spectacular views of Khövsgöl Nuur, and then cycled through the towns of Chandmonnur-Ondur and Tunel on the Eastern trek route back to Mörön.
Despite the insect bites the spectacular scenery interspersed with Shaman shrines, the food, hospitality and friendliness of the Mongolians, and the occasional sheep herding, made this an unforgettable experience.
In addition to funding provided by the Exploration Board this expedition was supported by the Lord Mayor's 800th Anniversary Awards Trust, the Old Centralians' Trust and the Royal College of Science Association Trust.
